"One of the most often asked questions I've seen regarding photography, above how to do something, is 'what is the best camera?', or 'what camera should I get?'.
Or something along those lines. The critical thing to note is that there is no such thing as the best camera.
Sure there are cameras that are technically better at certain things, for example, some cameras have very high resolutions, other are very good at low light photography, some are very small, and so on, but there's no such thing as an all encompassing camera that any person can point at and say 'that's the best one you can get', because all photographers are different and thus, have different requirements out of their camera.
As such, the type of camera I could recommend to you depends entirely on what sort of photographs you take, what sort of photographs you want to take, your budget, and a whole slew of other variables and in some cases, compromises, that will help to narrow down your choice.
I use myself as an example.
When I first started to get interested in photography, all I had was a Vivitar 3765 (at least, I think it was). It was a point and shoot camera in the truest sense, it was slow, the picture quality was mediocre at best and it had no manual controls to speak of. Suffice to say, I managed to reach my creative limits with that camera very quickly. Any further creative development on my part necessitated a new camera.
When I managed to get the money for a new camera, I was convinced that I needed a dSLR, so I did my research which eventually lead me to the Nikon D50. During my research, however, I also came across the Panasonic Lumix FZ30, which is a Bridge camera.
It took me several weeks going over the pros and cons of either, I even made detailed analyses on both, listing all the factors of the cameras that I felt were the most important.
Obviously, I finally chose the Nikon D50.
The point, at the time, was that all my decisions in leading to my purchase were compromises. What I gained in some areas I might lose in others. For example, the Nikon D50 with its larger sensor was much better under low light than the FZ30, but it also had a (slightly) lower resolution.
Of course, at the time I was making this decision (middle of 2006), the market wasn't as developed as it is today.
I wouldn't dismiss any class of camera today in your final decision.
You'll probably have noticed that I've tried to avoid pointing to any one type of camera as a suggestion to go to. I mean, while there's no such thing as 'the best' camera, surely, you'd think that I'd be able to point to one camera, or camera form factor that would be 'good enough' for nearly any scenario. But even giving a recommendation for that is fraught with difficulty.
For example, I could say that getting a Mirrorless Interchangeable Lens Camera (MILC) also commonly called a Compact System Camera (CSC) would make for a good general purpose camera form factor, as they allow interchangeable lenses, and thus have flexibility to enable being general purpose, but aren't large or heavy in themselves that people would avoid actually using the cameras because they'd be a hassle to carry around all the time. I could say that, but then there'd be many people who'd disagree, some prefer the Phase Detection auto-focus of SLR cameras, some think that even CSC's are too large, and would prefer a camera with a fixed lens.
All my waffling is trying to make the ultimate point that it's basically subjective.
Set yourself a budget (ideally one you can afford
Ideally, actually get a hold of the cameras your looking at, and see how they feel to actually use (ergonomics are extremely important, after all, you want to be comfortable in using the camera, or you just won't use it).
Once you've made a shortlist of the cameras you're considering, then you can get third party opinions and suggestions, to give you different perspectives in case you've missed anything obvious that would make a camera a hit or miss to you.
Unfortunately, doing all of this can take time, and it does take a modicum of effort. However, the reward in taking that time and effort, I think are worth it."



























They generally cost around $100 at their base price.
No, they don't tend to come with the split prism focus anymore. But then, I think viewfinders have got increasingly smaller as models have developed. Well, this for Sony anyway, I'm not sure about other kinds but as far as I know, it's not a common focus anymore
Are most viewfinders LCD now? I love my LCD display on my point and shoot, but sometimes a good old fashioned optical viewfinder is just nice to have
When you step away from SLR's though and go with MILC's then you're in EVF territory. My Panasonic G2 is Micro Four Thirds, so it can't have the optics for an optical viewfinder, so instead, it has a 1.4 million dot (about equal to an 800x600 resolution) EVF.
Naturally, you can configure what sort of information is overlaid on the live image, and in my case, you can choose how it is overlaid (as in, it can look like a typical live preview with information shown on top of the image, or like an OVF, with the information below the image). I find the EVF good enough for nearly anything I've thrown at it so far, and it provides the advantage of allowing me to zoom to pixel level detail when I'm doing manual focus, which is often.
Of course, the detail in the EVF doesn't compare to an OVF (yet, anyway), and you don't get noise during low light, and in my case, I wouldn't get colour tearing because my eye has moved, as the EVF in my camera is a Field Sequential system, which means it shows one colour at a time. You win some, you lose some, I suppose
But yeah, I guess it's always a constant battle over quality and features.
I have one of each right now, well, both have LCD displays but only one has live view. Both have the optical viewfinder too of course. I try and use that as much as possible, live view is for awkward angles and that
LCD's are great, but yeah, you just can't beat the old faithful optical viewfinder. And there is just something intimate and good about putting your eye up to the viewfinder. All you see is the image, so you can really just concentrate on the image and frame it right and all that.