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October 2, 2011
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Project Educate: Photography 3rd October 2011 -> 9th October 2011




Project Educate has launched for 2011/2012 and I'm delighted to announce that the first week will be brought to you by myself and `ScENeYmE
As two of the General Photography Community Volunteers we will be posting topic specific weeks later on in the year. But for now we thought it would be nice to launch with a week of Photography Basics for those of you who are uncertain where to start - and those who just want some new tips and beautiful features to look at!

Keep an eye on the blog over at #communityrelations as each CV will be posting announcements about their weeks there. Also head over and make sure you are watching #projecteducate where we will be collating all the links to the articles over the coming months.



Shooting in RAW





It's surprising how many people own a flashy D-SLR camera but know little about this rather simple to use (and admittedly life saving sometimes!) technique. When you get a camera it's easy to not fiddle around with the settings and to leave it in factory mode.

What's the difference between RAW and JPEG?

JPEG requires a lot of things to be right at the time of shooting. Although most of us have access to a fairly good quality editing program, there are many things (as I am now finding!) that cannot be edited/altered/bettered/worsened afterwards.

RAW allows you to modify a whole lot more afterwards. Not that I encourage too much modification of course…The downside to RAW is it allows you to  be lazy. You don't spend so much time concentrating on the shot at the time of shooting. You accept that there is a fall back!
I think that most cameras allow you to shoot both RAW and JPEG simultaneously. Draining on your battery and your memory card – but worth it if you're not keen to just leap to RAW straight away. There should be clear instructions in your manual or online, assisting you to change your shooting mode.

You'll also need the right software to convert your pictures to JPEG. I convert mine in Photoshop.

Memory Cards





As I said, shooting in RAW will fill your card quicker as the files are not as compressed as JPEG. I prefer to use several 4gb memory cards rather than going for a large card – it reduces the risk of loosing lots of images at once.

Handy Tip:
Have you reformatted a card by mistake? Don't panic! Just be sure NOT to take any new pictures and it is possible to try and recover them.

Tripods


In all honesty – over the past year or so I have only used a tripod once. That was because I was trying to capture an elusive King Fisher and didn't want to stand holding the camera for a long time!



It's personal preference really. When I do use a tripod I have a carbon fibre light weight but substantial tripod. It does the trick. Easy to carry but sturdy on the ground. My particular one has spikes that you can lower on the legs, to stabilize it further in boggy ground. It has a spirit level and a shift/tilt/pan head. That cost me in the region of £99. You can get light weight, slightly un-sturdy plastic tripods for around £20.

Monopods



I highly recommend a Monopod. It's something you can attach your camera to when out walking, it's easy to transport and it's just THERE for those moments when you really quickly need to take a shot before it runs away! I use a Monopod far more than  a Tripod. It's not as sturdy, but to be honest I don't notice the difference. Plus if you start waving the Monopod around with a shutter release – you can get all sorts of out of reach shots!



Having said all that – at the time of writing this I have just been informed that there is a much simpler solution to stabilizing your camera and it can cost as little as a few pence!

Stabilize your camera for as little as a dollar!

Other Accessories



When I got my first SLR someone told me to instantly get a UV filter to protect my lens. These can be picked up for around £10 online or in Photography stores and are worth the effort. They are a life saver! They are basically extra protection for your lens from scratches, scuffs and other knocks. People have been known to drop a lens and have the filter crack saving the actual lens - which is seriously fantastic!

Point and Shoot versus D-SLR



I highly recommend any camera with a specification similar to a Sony Cyber shot if you just want a snappy point and shoot digi - cam. In fact I recommend Sony for everything! Here's an example of what can be achieved with the three different cameras I own...


HTC Desire HD Mobile Phone


Sony Cybershot £150 point and shoot


Sony Alpha A550 D-SLR in the region of £500

It's not all about the camera - it's how you use it :)


:heart:

:bulletblack:Project Educate: Night Photography

:bulletblack:Project Educate: Shooting Fireworks

:bulletblack:Project Educate: Photography Basics

:bulletblack:Project Educate: Photography Mini Contest

:bulletblack:Project Educate: The Full Schedule!
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:iconcakecrumbs:
I'm just stumbling around articles on in project educate (I can't even remember what I was actually looking for in the first place) but came across this article and I have a question for you.

I just recently purchased my first D-SLR and am having lots of fun learning how to use it. When I got it the salesperson recommended UV filters and I got one for each lens (I'm glad they mentioned it as I wouldn't have even thought of it). I do a lot of bushwalking or fieldwork in a variety of weather conditions and environments so protecting the lens seemed like an amazing idea.

However, I was randomly came across a few articles on photography forums where photographers were saying they're a bad idea and cause more problems than they solve. They spoke of them increasing lens flare and a few other things I've already forgotten, but the general gist was that putting an extra layer of glass between your lens and subject was a bad idea.

I'm not game to remove the filter to test for myself -- so I was interested in your opinion. Do you find UV filters decrease photo quality at all?
Reply
:iconkaz-d:
^Kaz-D Jan 8, 2013  Hobbyist Photographer
Hullo!
Tis a brilliant question indeed :) did your D-SLR come with a lens hood? A detachable bit on the front that can shade it from sunbursts and so on? If so then that will likely decrease the effect of lens flares as it tends to protect the camera. But having said that, I only use the hood in brilliantly strong sunshine, other times I always keep the UV filter on, it's part of the camera to me and isn't worth not having on because of how much i bash them around! I rarely if ever have been disappointed due to flares and the like :)
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:iconcakecrumbs:
Thanks for that!

It didn't come with a lens hood but I've been thinking about getting one. I've only had it for a week or two but have found lens flare to be a big problem on some days. I'm sure a lot of this has to do with the time of day, though, and the fact that we're currently in the middle of one of the hottest Australian summers on record. I'm not exactly planning my day around the best available light for shooting(we tend to spend every available hour of the day bushwalking and adventuring when on holidays so it's just whatever light there happens to be at the time). I have been shooting directly into incredibly bright sun on cloudless days at times so it probably exacerbated the problem. It just seemed to be much more dramatic lens flare than I got with my P&S.

I have to do some more reading about lens hood types and options so I understand them properly before making a purchase. But one more quick question - when you say "other times I always keep the UV filter on", does that mean that the lens hood has to be used without the UV filter?
Reply
:iconkaz-d:
^Kaz-D Jan 14, 2013  Hobbyist Photographer
I think it's worth it if you get a lot of sunshine! There are a few lens hoods to choose from, some are flower shaped, some are just standard. Getting a couple works well, but the standard plain shape is best for starters. The lens hood can definitely be used with the UV filter on my camera, although I have seen some where the fitting is bad. But you can ask about that in the shop or online if you're getting it from a virtual shop. So it can work either with, or without. I vote using both at the same time, because the UV will protect your lens from scratches more than anything else. :)
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:iconcakecrumbs:
Thanks heaps for taking the time to explain. :]
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:icondhik-a:
=dhik-a Nov 13, 2011  Student General Artist
Oh, I just see this.
But, do you have any tips for pocket camera user? Thanks. :)
Reply
:iconkaz-d:
^Kaz-D Nov 15, 2011  Hobbyist Photographer
Gorilla tripods are excellent for starters, they are really useful to stabilise a pocket camera! :)
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:iconpopoks:
=popoks Oct 9, 2011   Photographer
:clap:
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:iconstutteringsentiments:
what advice would you give a beginning photographer? like what should s/he get started on e.g. people, nature, still life, etc.
Reply
:iconkaz-d:
^Kaz-D Oct 8, 2011  Hobbyist Photographer
I'd say the best thing to aspire to is your surroundings. How do they work for you? Are you in a town or a village? Is there a lot of architecture around or a lot of rural land? It's difficult to aspire to something if it's not readily at hand to start with for you to experiment with. I wanted to capture flowing water - such as a waterfall, when I first started out. And became increasingly frustrated at not having any access to one! Instead I realised I needed to make sure of what I had on my doorstep. And combine that with what I am interested in. So I started with Nature Photography. Just wandering around the garden shooting flowers and different perspectives. Abstract Photography is very much on hand with close ups of petals, leaves, food, grass and so on.

I think the best advice is to work with what you've got to feel comfortable, then tackle the more complicated/harder to reach things. I hope that helps a bit :)
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